Blog

  • As You Were?

    As You Were?

    ‘So how is it being back?’ I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve been asked. But that’s not a dig. I like being asked. It shows people are interested, people care. Each time I’m asked it feels like a window is opened in my mind, it gives me permission to look through and Read more

  • Journey’s End

    Journey’s End

    Ted sits up, startled and bolt upright, he claps his hands loudly and starts shooing something away. The commotion wakes me with a start from my deep sleep. I’m confused. ‘What are you doing?’ I ask as my eyes adjust to the light of the early morning witching hour, ‘There was a pig’ he says Read more

  • Because the World is not done with us yet.

    Because the World is not done with us yet.

    As my eyes crack open and the comforting sight of the black tent poles criss-crossing overhead come into focus I repeat my usual morning internal conversation, ‘I’m in the tent, but where is the tent!?’ After all this time, all the nights sleeping in the tent, the sight of it’s slightly yellowing inner and the Read more

  • It’s the Home Straight for a Reason.

    It’s the Home Straight for a Reason.

    Why do people always call it the ‘home straight?’ Ted says to me as we ride side-by-side on the perfectly straight, perfectly flat, perfectly paved, purpose-built cycle path, ‘Why is it never the home wiggle!?’ – In all honesty, I had never really thought about it, but we were about to find out why…. We Read more

  • The Balkans Bash

    The Balkans Bash

    The plan was simple – catch a ferry from Turkiye to the Greek Island of Chios, sleep a couple of hours in the ferry terminal building, and in the early hours of the morning we would jump on the next ferry to the Greek mainland. But as we have learnt many, many times over on Read more

  • It’s More Than Just A Cup of Tea – Turkiye, Part II

    It’s More Than Just A Cup of Tea – Turkiye, Part II

    We had been in Turkiye for only a few days, but we had already had a taste of the kindness of the Turkish people – big smiles and waves, shouts of ‘hello’ and many cups of çay (pronounced like ‘chai’, meaning tea). After a morning of downhill descending and dodging traffic jams of sheep, we Read more

  • The Other Side – Turkiye, Part I

    The Other Side – Turkiye, Part I

    Turkiye felt like a big step for us. It was the last section of Asia we would dip into on this trip. On the other side of Turkiye, culturally everything would shift. On the other side would lie Greece, the Balkans, Europe and then, dare we say it, home. On the other side would lie the Read more

  • Georgia – Where the grass is greener, the history is alive and the  bread is always delicious.

    Georgia – Where the grass is greener, the history is alive and the  bread is always delicious.

    So it turns out the grass IS actually greener on the other side. In our case ‘the other side’ was the geographical European continent. By entering Georgia in the North East and crossing the Northern Caucasus mountains we crossed from the geographical Asian continent, into the European one. Unlike any country border crossing there were Read more

  • A Man’s World

    A Man’s World

    Baku is known as the city of wind and our stay there gave us a taster of exactly why it has attracted the name. A huge storm rolled in a few hours after we had arrived, and continued for two days straight. Winds of up to 100km per hour, sideways rain, with thunder and lightning Read more

  • Seasons may Change, Winter to Spring.

    Seasons may Change, Winter to Spring.

    A Sleepless Start Let’s begin by rewinding a little. Those who are keen readers of the blog (thank you and well done to you) may remember that our time in Nepal ended with a rather epic 22 hour bus journey (meaning we lost a night of sleep) followed by a bout of food poisoning (meaning Read more

  • The Forgotten Himalayan Mid-Hills High Road

    The Forgotten Himalayan Mid-Hills High Road

    Only an hour into our days ride and I was already off and pushing. I was internally cursing the unrelenting steep climbs, the loose potato sized rocks of the road surface and the 10cm of fine dust that was it’s top coat. All of it seemed to be conspiring against me. Each step forward, heaving Read more

  • Nepal – Day One; A Tea House and a State of Confusion.

    Nepal – Day One; A Tea House and a State of Confusion.

    The skin on my face is stinging and prickling with the salty water that beads from every pour. The heat built up behind the buff pulled over my face is unbearable. My t-shirt is wet and sticking to my back where the trickling sweat pools. It all feels disgusting. I jump at a honking horn Read more

  • Together

    Together

    When we first dreamt of this trip, we would often talk about potentially spending some time off the bikes, doing projects that interested us or volunteering. As we planned and prepped, the reality of the trip sunk in. Two years is a long time. It’s longer than most people allow themselves to dream of, but Read more

  • A Short and Sweet Start to Nepal

    A Short and Sweet Start to Nepal

    Nepal is a country I have wanted to visit for as long as I can remember. Maybe it’s the draw of the mountains themselves, or the country’s deep spiritual connection to them, or the mystery surrounding mans need to try and ‘conquer’ them, I don’t know. But for whatever reason, it was important to me Read more

  • Getting a Wiggle On

    Getting a Wiggle On

    Our time in Thailand can be easily summarised by the phrase ‘get a wiggle on’. From the moment we had kindly been offered the chance to stay at our friend Claire’s apartment in Bangkok, for a few days over New Year, we quickly set our sights on it. Despite not being city people and despite Read more

  • Collecting Highfives

    Collecting Highfives

    Almost immediately, Laos felt different to Vietnam. We were only a few meters away from that arbitrary line in the road that defined the border and already; goats roamed the streets, a huge gold painted Buddhist statue towered over everything, mounds of bananas defied gravity piled high on mopeds, all the houses were wooden huts Read more

  • Rolling With It

    Rolling With It

    It’s been five minutes, we have already stopped to decide which fork in the road to take, ridden through an ‘Officials only’ car park, swerved around a barrier and been waved through toll booths, but finally we are on the quiet, narrow backstreets we long for. My alert, hyper-attentive senses start to calm, eyes melting Read more

  • Colourful Korea

    Colourful Korea

    Before this trip, South Korea was somewhere I really didn’t know much about, other than knowing it had an unfortunate neighbour. But whilst in the USA I had read a magazine article written by a couple who had bikepacked through the northern region. The photos of misty, autumn mornings, simple villages and traffic free riding Read more

  • Learning Japanese

    Learning Japanese

    Now lets set the record straight before you start thinking we learnt Japanese in our one month there, we absolutely did not. It is so hard to even comprehend where you would start learning Japanese. We managed to pick up all of two words whilst we were there – ‘hello’ and ‘thank you’ – and Read more

  • All Change in Japan

    All Change in Japan

    Japan – Part One of Two (or should that be Chapter 2, Part 1 of our round the world antics, who knows!?) This time last year we were in Europe, just settling in to life on the bikes. A life where our only permanence is the bikes, each other and the little green dome we Read more

  • To-ky-o

    To-ky-o

    Tokyo – Where we lost a day, gained some friends and saw a sumo on a bicycle. This was a city break like no other. Months and months ago, whilst enjoying a rare and treasured video call to catch up with some friends, plans were hatched to try and meet up with them in Japan. Read more

  • North Star Turning West

    North Star Turning West

    Our first day North of the border after leaving the USA, and it started with a steep climb up a mountain in the rain, wading through an icy glacial creek, a stay in a remote forest cabin and meeting a moose – Welcome to Canada. Despite this classically Canadian welcome to the country, we did Read more

  • Ripples

    Ripples

    The day had already been a long one. I was tired – A reflection of the continual riding, only six weeks earlier we had started our journey up the USA and now we were less than a week away from the Canadian border. I could tell Ted was flagging too by the gentle, understanding glances Read more

  • The Big Easy

    The Big Easy

    The morning air is fresh now, it has a coolness to it that feels so unfamiliar. I grab my fleece from it’s crumpled home at the bottom of my dry-sack, pulling it over my head. The golden light of dawn draws me outside and I pushed open the creaky cabin door, coffee in hand, careful Read more

  • The Land of the Free

    The Land of the Free

    As we crossed the border from Arizona into Utah, the second state of our journey across the USA, the approach of the 4th July was becoming evident. American flags adorned houses, shops and street lights in preparation for American Independence Day. Ted turned to me one morning whilst riding through a sleepy flag-covered village and Read more

  • Arizona – A Very Warm Welcome

    Arizona – A Very Warm Welcome

    We landed in Phoenix, Arizona, USA, in early June. We immediately felt a million miles away from Lima, Peru where we had boarded the plane a few hours earlier. After 8 months of hearing very little English being spoken, it felt strange to understand the conversations going on around us as we queued, bleary eyed Read more

  • The Great Divides

    The Great Divides

    Our final month in Peru has been spent riding another iconic Bikepacking route, this time the Peru Divide. The route is famous for it’s stunning rugged mountain scenery, remote villages teetering on steep valley sides and climbing. Lots and lots of climbing. Then a bit more climbing. The Peru Divide is so called because it Read more

  • The Places In-between

    The Places In-between

    One of my favourite things about travelling by bike is all the places in-between that it takes you. You set out aiming for a particular town or village, and more often than not, the places you trundle through in order to get there end up being more interesting than the place you’re aiming for. The Read more

  • The Living Mountains

    The Living Mountains

    Our time in Peru started with a birthday. Ted turned 37 the day we crossed the border at Concordia, right on the coast – not that we could see the sea from there. The landscape was desolate. An ugly, grey, dry, hot desert, with piles of rubbish strewn all along the highway and beyond. The Read more

  • Defying Borders

    Defying Borders

    “If we read borders as narrative lines, sometimes they tell different stories than their authors intended. Sometimes the original plot runs wild.” I love this quote. It’s taken from an essay written by Kate Harris, who also wrote one of my favourite books of all time ‘Lands of Lost Borders: A Journey on the Silk Read more

  • Sickness, Storms and Salt Flats

    Sickness, Storms and Salt Flats

    It feels like a little while since I last put pen to paper – or more accurately tippie-typed away on my phone. We’ve seen and done a lot over the last few weeks, in three different countries – so that’s three different types of currency, three different phone SIM cards and three different accents of Read more

  • Ruta de los Seis Miles, Sur

    Ruta de los Seis Miles, Sur

    There is a route across the Puna Region of Northern Argentina that is legendary amoung bikepackers around the world, even mention of its name brings the fluttery feeling of fear and excitement to your stomach – The Ruta de Los Seis Miles Sur. This is our Ruta de Los Seis Miles story, so grab a Read more

  • Days Like This

    Days Like This

    Before we set off on our travels in September, we were so busy packing up our lives at home that I didn’t really dare let myself imagine what life on the road would really be like. Taking my attention away from the business of organising, packing and sorting, to conjure up romantic notions of what Read more

  • Don’t Look Up

    Don’t Look Up

    We are five months into our trip. We still find ourselves saying ‘Can you believe we are doing this?’ Sometimes it still doesn’t quite feel real. The vastness of the scenery, the change in cultures, the different people we meet, living on the bikes, waking somewhere new (almost) everyday make everything feel so disparate from Read more

  • Oh Argentina!

    Oh Argentina!

    Re-entering Argentina after about a month in Chile was a joy. We both just really enjoyed being somewhere different. The culture is very laid back, the people are super friendly and the horse is a legitimate mode of transport to the local shops – What’s not to love?! There’s something about Argentina that I don’t Read more

  • Lessons in River Crossing

    Lessons in River Crossing

    Our journey has continued northwards. Well actually in reality it’s been more like North, then West, then North, then East, then North, then East, then North, then West, then North, then East, then North – you get the gist. Our route remained on the Carretera Austral (Chile’s Ruta 7) for a couple of weeks. The Read more

  • Postcard Patagonia

    Postcard Patagonia

    I’m writing this post from the Toni Rohrer Refugio at Campamento D’Agostini, the base camp for Monte San Lorenzo (the second highest mountain in Southern Patagonia at 3706m). Don’t worry, we aren’t going to pretend to be mountaineers and attempt the climb. But we have taken a slight detour from our route North, to enjoy Read more

  • The Tourist Attraction

    The Tourist Attraction

    We’re not really one for tourist attractions. In actual fact, we often go out of our way to avoid them. There’s something about the over-hype, the mass of people, the unnecessary expense and the shops full of chinese made tourist tat, that make us run in the opposite direction. It often leads to some awkward Read more

  • Playing with Fire – Tierra del Fuego

    Playing with Fire – Tierra del Fuego

    Tierra del Fuego is just about as far South as you can get in the world, without jumping on a boat to Antarctica that is. It’s the large island that makes up the foot of Argentina and it’s here that our South American journey starts. I’ve always thought that Tierra del Fuego, which means land Read more

  • The End of the Beginning

    The End of the Beginning

    All those months ago, when we were starting to scope out this trip and put together ideas of what it might look like, starting off by following the sun south through Europe seemed like a sensible idea. Ted and I don’t often do sensible, but on this occasion I’m really glad we did. We’ve now Read more

  • Finding the Happy Medium

    Finding the Happy Medium

    As everyone who bikepacks knows, the only plan in bikepacking is that the plan goes out the window the moment you set off – It’s part of the joy of it all. So our plan to have a few days of plain sailing after crossing the border into Spain didn’t quite go as we had Read more

  • Merci, au revoir!

    Merci, au revoir!

    After three and a half weeks we say ‘merci, au revoir!’ to France. Despite France being a country that was pretty familiar to both of us before this trip, we’ve both enjoyed new experiences and learnt a lot about life here by travelling through it on our bikes and staying with locals. We’ve found comfort Read more

  • A Real Life Game of Snakes and Ladders

    A Real Life Game of Snakes and Ladders

    Since our last post, it feels a bit like we’ve been playing a real life, good old fashioned, game of Snakes and Ladders, with tears and tantrums included! Albeit in our game, it’s all been upside down – the snakes down have been the great flowing fun single-track, and the ladders up have been the Read more

  • For the Love of Trees

    For the Love of Trees

    During the week that the UK has been shocked and saddened by the horrific destruction of the infamous Robin Hood Tree on Hadrian’s Wall, we feel incredibly privileged to have spent the best part of our week living among the trees and woodland of Germany and France. Heading South from Koln we were soon into Read more

  • A First Week – A Week of Firsts

    A First Week – A Week of Firsts

    So we are one week into our trip, and being honest it just feels like a lovely holiday at the moment. But that being said, we have experienced a number of firsts, which we know with hindsight will be a momentous occasions or the first of many along this journey. None of the firsts have Read more

  • Buen Camino

    Buen Camino

    After a week of heartfelt goodbyes we are finally on our way. There’s so much we want to say but kinda just don’t quite know how to articulate that slightly nervous apprehension….. no, wait, we already wrote a post about that! It’s been overwhelming the amount of love we have felt from friends, family and Read more

  • The Robinsons have left the building

    The Robinsons have left the building

    A whole life packed into boxes. It’s strange to stand and look at. To feel like part of myself is now cut off from use, wrapped in bubble wrap and carefully stored away. Will I even remember or care what is in those boxes when I’m away!? When I return, will it feel like all Read more

  • Triggers Broom

    Triggers Broom

    Back in 2013 (ish), when I was young enough to still have hair sticking out from that flat cap I never took off, and at the time when I had too much money to know what to do with, I bought a classic mini – On my lunch break. It looked great in the advert. Read more

  • An Extreme Case of Resfeber*

    An Extreme Case of Resfeber*

    * (noun) Swedish: The restless race of a traveller’s heart before the journey begins, when anxiety and anticipation are tangled together; a ‘travel fever’ that can manifest as an illness. In hindsight, making the decision and setting our departure date was the easy bit. No one ever talks about the bit after the decision is Read more

  • How did we get here? How do we get out?

    How did we get here? How do we get out?

    It started as a silly joke really – When general adulting just felt exhausting; the frustrations of work were getting to us; or we were tired of debating which type of skirting board we needed (!) the flippant side comments just seemed to come so easily – ‘Doesn’t matter when we are cycling around the Read more